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Making Natural Hair Appear Longer: Stretching Shrunken Hair

Women have become creative in ways to “stretch” the shrinkage that comes with having true afro-textured hair. Shrinkage is a dilemma that naturals face every time water touches our textured hair. Though shrinkage may be embraced when manipulating the hair into certain styles, often styles requiring length are limited due to the hair drawing up (I’ve seen natural hair with 75% shrinkage). Below are a few ways to stretch shrunken hair, making your natural hair appear to be longer (closer to its true length).

Use a blow dryer. Blow dryers can obviously be used to free the hair from its shrinkage, but they must be used with caution. A low setting and a heat protectant must be coupled with using this tool, because the direct heat has the ability to alter the textures of the hair if not used properly and carefully.

Use rollers under a hooded dryer. This works like a charm for some, giving them length, without compromising the volume of the hair. The indirect heat is not damaging as flat irons or blow dryers would be.

Use the banding method. Many ladies can be found on youtube using this method to stretch the hair by wrapping rubber bands, scrunchies, and small cloths around the hair to extend its position, stretching the afro in result.

Put plaits in the hair and allow it to air dry. Plaits have been known to stretch the hair more than it would if the hair were left to air dry with two-strand twists or without any styling at all.

“Pineapple” the hair by pulling it up into a high pony at the crown of your head. The “pineappling” method stretches the length of the hair up to the crown, by extending it after it has been in that position over time. Be sure not to pull the hair up too tightly, or you will cause tension on the strands.

Natural Hair Softener and Moisturizer

Shea butter, coconut oil, and aloe vera gel combine to create a wonderful moisturizer. The three elements to the mixture all prove to encompass their own specialties; when they come together, it creates a heavenly mixture. I’m not sure who initially thought of the mixture and put it together, but the mix definitely does wonders for natural hair. Therefore, whoever you are out there – thanks are in order!!!

I create my whipped Shea butter mixture based on consistency, as I do not measure the ingredients out exactly. Here is a guide that you may find useful:

1. Begin with the shea butter as the base (place it in a small container for storage)
   
2. Melt the shea slightly (30 sec or so) in the microwave to soften up the texture
3. Stir in the aloe vera gel adding small amounts until you get a nice creamy consistency (you may end up with about half as much AV Gel as you used shea butter)
4. Add about a tablespoon or so of coconut oil
5. Mix the elements up well blending them all together and let the shea cool/settle
6. VOILA – you have your perfect mix of “sheacocoaloe”

Try it out as it softens, moisturizes, and seals all in one for my 4b hair! Happy Healthy Hair Growing!

Transitioning from Relaxed to Natural

Transitioning from relaxed to natural can be one  of the best decisions that you can make for your hair; however, the process is not always easy.  Some decide to transition because of the desire to enjoy the natural curls and coils that they were born with, others are forced to because of the havoc that the relaxer has relinquished on the hair.  Whether you decide to transition for a lifestyle change or if you just decide to do so cold turkey, you can take a few steps to making your journey from relaxed to natural much easier.

Make sure that you have decided to transition to natural, for whatever reason is right for you, and stick to it!  Committing to see the journey through to the end will be a big part of the journey to natural.  There are too many times that we may think that we make decisions to do things and we do not always follow through with them.  Be sure to have plenty of patience and determination in this journey!

Take pride in learning about hair care! Figure out what the right steps are to engage in your healthy hair care journey.  There will be a wealth of information to learn at first, but once you start learning what your hair needs, it will be a real treat!

Have fun with it! Join a forum for support, I got most of my information and support from the blackhairplanet.com forum.  You will find naturals and transitioners on the forums and on YouTube that will have some of the best tips to assist you.  You will have fun meeting new people, making new friends, and learning all there is to know about your hair!

Embrace the true texture of your hair, and experiment with what works for your hair type.  Many hope for soft curls, waves, and coils, but as the old saying goes, you don’t always get what you wish for.  For those that have no idea what your natural texture looks like (from years of relaxing from childhood), do not hesitate to embrace whatever texture the Lord blessed you with.  Trust me, there’s someone out there wishing they had your hair (yes even if it’s the 4a/4b texture like mine)!!!

Remember to take healthy steps to managing the two textures. The hair is very sensitive when it is composed of multiple textures.  The line of demarcation (the point where the relaxed meet the natural hair) is the most fragile point of the strand.  The relaxed hair and natural hair combination may be quite difficult to manage and if one is not careful, it will get a lot more difficult as time progresses.  In order to disguise the difference in textures you must experiment with styles that compliment your features.  You may enjoy styles such as braid outs, twist outs, bantu knot outs, roller sets, and many more styles.  You will not always need to apply heat to conceal the two textures, but when you do, always use the proper techniques including a heat protectant.

Form a regimen that works for you!  This may include low manipulation, washing the hair weekly or bi-weekly, co-washing, etc.  I will give you more information on more in depth tips and techniques to transitioning in style!

Have a great, happy transition everyone!

Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Conditioner Review

After hearing all of the hype about Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose, I was compelled to try the conditioner and review it; and  after evaluating the results, I am ‘sold’.

Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Conditioner claims to correct “dry, brittle hair.” The product contains an extremely moisturizing formula which seems to back up its claims as far as adding plenty of moisture. While my natural hair was not super dry and brittle (I moisturize and seal often to prevent such consequences), it was in need of a weekly deep moisture treatment. I would say that the Honeysuckle Rose did it’s job where my needs were concerned. The conditioner may be used on all hair types; I have extremely coarse 4b hair, and it works for me.

I must note: the first time I used the conditioner without heat, while the second time I applied it and sat under a hooded dryer. The best results came from my using the conditioner with heat; as I have noticed that my hair responds better to a deep treatment that utilizes an indirect heat or steam source (while these were my findings, the next person’s hair may respond better to the conditioner without heat…in essence – get to know your hair ladies!).

Positives:

• Thick, Creamy Consistency
• Softens Hair
• Heavily Moisturizing
• Vegan & Natural Formula
• Multi-uses (leave-in, deep conditioner, co-washes)
• Smells Excellent
• Doesn’t Weigh the Hair Down

Negatives:

• If not completely and properly washed out, it may cause crunchy curls/hair
• $8.50 for an 11oz bottle may be a bit pricey for those on a budget

I use this conditioner when I need a high moisture kick, but, it won’t replace my Nature’s Gate L & A (which happens to be cheaper with amazing results).  The Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose definitely gets thumbs up from me!

Ingredients:

Coconut Fatty Acid Cream Base, Organic Aloe Vera, Organic Shea Butter, Wheat Germ Oil, Organic Jojoba Oil, Organic Rosa Mosqueta® Rose Hip Seed Oil; Extracts of Fennel, Hops, Balm Mint, Mistletoe, Camomile, Yarrow, Chrysanthemum, Angelica, Forsythia and Magnolia; Honeysuckle Oil, Carrot Oil, Aubrey’s Preservative (Citrus Seed Extract, Vitamins A, C and E).

Rating: 4 / 5

Co-Washing Natural Hair

The benefits of CO-washing (Conditioner Only Washing) may be recognized far and wide. Co-washing is simply washing the hair with conditioner only. Shampoo is eliminated from the process. Co-washing has been known to help with detangling, combing, and promoting overall growth of the hair by keeping the scalp clean and moisturized without stripping the hair of its natural oils like most sulfate-containing shampoos do. Many naturals have given co-washing two thumbs up, attributing the method of cleansing the scalp to: defining the curl pattern, softening the hair, and making it more manageable.

If you choose to try co-washing it is done best with the cheaper conditioners. For most naturals, moisturizing conditioners (I use VO5 Moisture Milks and love it; review coming soon) work best, as moisture is imperative to our natural curls. All the while, we do not require as much protein as relaxed heads since we don’t have chemicals stripping our hair of the natural protein its infused with. Using a protein based conditioner will actually cause protein overload and result in unwanted breakage.

The conditioner is applied to the hair, slightly massaged into the scalp, left on for a few minutes, then it is rinsed out. You may choose to let the conditioner penetrate the hair shaft by letting it sit on a bit longer, or with a shower cap, however, with the cheap conditioners, you may find that you don’t want some of the ingredients sitting on your hair for too long. Most of us find it beneficial to leave that job to the Deep conditioners. You may repeat the process if you so desire. Naturals may co-wash daily or once a week; the frequency is very flexible, that’s a plus to being natural – the freedom!

A couple of things that you don’t want to forget :

• You still will need to use a shampoo for clarification to remove any product buildup you may experience over time.
• Avoid heavy conditioners, esp those with petrolatum, mineral oil, etc.
• Avoid moisture overload and reduce the frequency of co-washing if you experience such.
• Just b/c you co-wash with a moisture conditioner, don’t totally cut out a heavy protein treatment (every 6-8 weeks more or less) or light protein(1-2x a week), as it’s important for the hair to keep a healthy balance of both.
• You are at liberty to deep condition the same day if you want

Although some naturals (none that I’ve talked to might I add) may not like the co-washing process, when done correctly, co-washing has proven to be very helpful in cleansing and treating our tresses. If you decide to try this process, take heed to the way your hair responds and don’t hesitate to listen! As you will be able to adjust the frequency and overall co-washing routine to its optimal level for your tresses!

Until next time…Happy Healthy Hair Growing!

The Banding Method: How to Stretch Hair Without the use of Heat

The Banding Method is the method of putting ponytail holders on the hair to get it to stretch out.  It counters the notion of shrinkage.  Many naturals have to deal with the shrinkage that comes along with having natural hair.  Some of us embrace it, but even with embracing it, we sometimes like to switch it up by stretching the hair out.  Instead of blow drying the hair, heat styling it or tugging it in frustration, try the banding method.

1. Part into larger sections
2. Place a leave-in in the hair first
3. Moisturize and seal
4. Smooth the hair down
5. Take ouchless bands, put it near the roots of the hair to smooth roots
6. Continue putting the bands on the hair until you work your way down to the ends

Keep in mind, this should be done on wet/damp hair.  The thicker the hair, more sections you should have.  The shorter the hair, you may want to do more sections as well.  Use your better judgment when doing this method and go through the process of trial and error.  Instead of length checking with heat styling use the banding method (a video tutorial is provided for reference and help).  It’s just another method to add to your natural hair arsenal of styling techniques!  Happy Healthy Hair Stretching!

Shedding or Breakage?

Many ladies (and some gents) have difficulties when it comes to recognizing shedding and breakage.  Often, we have no problem actually seeing the hair fall out.  However, sometimes it is difficult to tell whether the hair is constantly breaking, or if it is just going through the shedding phase.  The following aims to provide some help for the issue.

Breakage can be easily recognized.  It is often in the form of shorter pieces of hair (shorter than the length of the hair).  It can be caused by relaxers, chemicals, split ends, excessive dryness, moisture overload, etc.   When you over-manipulate the hair, combing or styling it too much, you may see a heightened occurrence of breakage as well.

Shedding is accompanied by a white bulb on the tip.  This signifies that the hair has come from the root.  Therefore, the strand will be the length of the hair.  Keep in mind that the hair will shed naturally, and this is something that should not alarm you.  On the other hand, excessive shedding comes from something on the inside that has gone wrong.  50-100 strands daily is in the “normal/average” range of shedding.  You may not see this if you do not comb your hair daily (which is common among naturals), in result, you may see more of the shed hair on the day that you actually comb the hair.  The hair goes through a grow, shed, rest phase that we should be conscious of so we do not panic at every hair that we may see.

There are many factors that may lead to excessive shedding.  Stress and anxiety because the stress cuts off the circulation of blood to the scalp.  As stated in the “Does your diet affect your hair?” you need a balanced diet in order to help the hair grow and thrive.  When you switch your diet up dramatically, or when you do not eat correctly, your hair displays it as much as the body does.  Moreover, certain medicines lead to shedding as well.  Frequent travelers may experience more excessive shedding as opposed to those who are in the same climate all the time.  Also, when traveling, make sure that you have a satin pillowcase to prevent dryness and breakage.

Hopefully this has helped you be able to be more mindful of the two different types of hair loss.  Happy Healthy Hair Growing!

With things being geared more towards global climate awareness each passing day, “green” products are selling quicker than lace fronts. Dr. Bronner’s Magic Soaps are prime examples of economical “green” products that will work for your tresses, not against them. Amidst many other functions, Dr. Bronner’s Magic Soaps can be used for washing the hair. I decided to give this product a try in an effort to incorporate more natural products into my regimen to tame my newly natural hair. I currently use the tea tree version of the 18-in-1 Hemp soaps, which I chose not only to cleanse my hair, but in order to combat my dermatitis (dandruff) issues as well.

I did not quite know what to expect from Dr. Bronner’s Magic Soaps as far as my hair goes, I have used them for bathing and even stain removal with impressive results (yes when they say 18-in-1 they are not joking!). However, I was confident in knowing that Dr. Bronner’s use of organic ingredients would not damage my hair. I have 4a/4b hair that contains very “kinky coily” curls. If I can use it, then this product can be used on all hair types. Natural and relaxed heads alike may see great results from using Dr. Bronner’s on the hair. After using this product, I have yielded amazing results. My scalp feels better than it ever has with the sls, petrolatum, and mineral oil laden products that I’d used before I knew better (thanks bhp). Here’s a summary of the results…

Pros:

• A little goes a LONG way
• Lathers easily
• Cuts product build up, w/o drying out the scalp
• Scalp looks and feels clean as a whistle
• Anti-dandruff
• Does not strip the hair of its natural oils
• No sls, petrolatum, mineral oils, it’s 100% Vegan

Cons:

• Will tangle hair if not careful
• Tea tree scent doesn’t appeal to all

How To Use It:

• Mix one capful in a cup of water and pour on scalp per the directions, or wet hair with water and squeeze tiny amounts of the soap into your hair (front, back, middle) and work into an instant lather.
• In order to minimize the tangling, do not scrub or scratch your hair as most often do, but gently massage the product into your hair and scalp; it will do wonders.
• Rinse out product without too much manipulation.
• Apply your conditioner or oil after and continue to style as usual.

Ingredients:

Water, Saponified Organic Coconut and Organic Olive Oils, Organic Hemp Oil, Organic Jojoba Oil, Tea Tree Extract, Citric Acid, Vitamin E.

Jamaican Black Castor Oil Lavender Scent Review

Though I have only been using the Jamaican Black Lavender Scented Castor Oil for about a short while, I already love it! Let’s just say that I see what all of the “buzz” has been about. I love the consistency of it and the feel. I even enjoy the scent (and I am no huge fan of lavender scented things); I’m not sure what the unscented Jamaican Black Castor Oil smells like, but I know I can appreciate this one. I must admit, since I received the Jamaican Black Lavender Scented Castor Oil, I have pretty much disregarded the previously beloved Home Health Castor Oil. Besides the fact that I am almost out of the Home Health Castor Oil, the JBCO allows for easier application and I would like to isolate the results I achieve from using the JBCO exclusively.

Quick Assessment of the Jamaican Black Castor Oil Lavender Scent

• Soaks into the scalp
• Absorbs Quickly
• Promotes Healthy Growth
• Promotes Thickness
• Great Sealant for Moisture
• Nice Consistency (Not too thick, yet not watery)

Thus far, I would have to say that it is truly wonderful. I give it a 5/5. Release your inhibitions and don’t hesitate to try it.

Ingredients:

Jamaican Black Castor Oil, Lavender

A free promotional product was given for review. This, however, wasn’t a paid a review and is an honest product assessment.

Natural Hairstyles – Part I

Natural black hair is very versatile and may be styled in many ways. I can remember going to the salon when relaxed and loving the swing & feel of my hair, but hating the fact that every other woman in there who was being styled hopped up out of the chair looking just like me! That was scary! They had us hopping up out of our seats after paying $45, just to look like every other woman in the salon. Never again I say!

Remember no two natural heads are alike…there is so much versatility involved when referring to natural hair. You may see a style on one person’s head that you would love to try, yet you may never be able to repeat it exactly on your own head, but that is okay too. That just shows the level of uniqueness and individuality that is involved when it comes to natural hair.

The AFRO

Self Explanatory! The afro is the classic style for a natural. You can achieve it through the wash-n-go method, the blowout method, and many other ways. Once you have it, there is very low manipulation required thereafter. The afro can be the perfect accessory! It feels great to rock it out and to wear it boldly!

The Curly Fro

Very popular in the natural hair community [made even more popular by ItsMsHeatherNicole featured in the video below], the curly fro is a style that is done for an easy, care-free look without compromising the curly-ness or the cuteness!

Curly Fro

The Braid-Out

This style may be achieved by doing cornrows or plaits on the hair after washing and partially air-drying it. Let the braids stay in until completely dry. Take the braids out, fluff, and go! [Youtube vid provided by curlychronicles]

Braid Out

This is only part one of a series. These styles are only a few shades of the wide spectrum to show what natural hair is capable of! Stay tuned for the complete series! Until next time, Happy Healthy Hair Styling!!!